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brown chicken

[This article is part of a series.  Start with part 1.]

As I mentioned last time, there are only a few essential parts of a chicken coop.  There are also a few considerations you can make as you’re choosing a coop.  Today we will look at both of these topics.

Essentials in a chicken coop:

  1. Enough space.  Inside your chicken coop there should be 2-3 square feet per chicken.  It is okay to give them more space than this, but actually the birds rely partially on body heat to keep warm during the winter and if there are not enough bodies for the generous space that you give them, they may be cold in the winter.  If you live in an area that has really mild temperatures, this may not be a big deal.
  2. Shelter.  Your chickens need to be able to escape excessive heat (with shade), strong wind, rain, and excessive cold.
  3. A roost.  Basically, you need a bar that spans across your chicken coop.  It should be up off the ground, but at a height that the birds can jump up to.  The bar needs to be flat.  Don’t use a dowel.  A 2×4 piece of wood would be good, if you put it flat (not on end).  I’ve noticed that some pre-made chicken coops will include a roost that looks like a 1”x1” piece of wood.  I’m not sure why they do this.  The people who developed it must not actually have chickens.  A narrow roost will work; your birds will perch on it.  A wider roost is much better because in the cold their body sits on their feet to keep them warm.  If the perch is narrow, their body can only heat a small top portion of their feet, but if the perch is wide they can keep most of their feet warm.
  4. Nesting box, or somewhere to lay eggs.  When our birds get out, they make nests all over the place.  We joke about going on Easter egg hunts, because that’s basically what we do; we scout around until we find them.  If you don’t have nesting boxes, your birds will make a nest of pine shavings and start laying eggs on the ground.  Anything will work.  Most chicken coops come with nesting boxes already built in (and an easy access door for collecting eggs).  If your chicken coop doesn’t have nesting boxes you can either build some, buy some pre-built nesting boxes, or use a plastic shoebox filled with pine shavings.  The funny thing about chickens is, they tend to all lay their eggs in the same nesting box.  If you have a lot of birds, it’s good to have more nesting boxes because they may want to lay at the same time, but my birds almost always lay in the same box even they have three boxes to choose from.

Other considerations:

  1. Access to collect eggs.  Once you have laying hens, you will be collecting eggs every day.  Is it easy for you to access the nesting boxes?  Chicken coops usually have a roof that swings up, or a special egg access door.  If you’re using something like a dog house, you’ll probably want to put the nesting box near the door, because you may not want to crawl into the dog house every time you need to collect eggs.  Direct access to the eggs from outside the coop is very nice.
  2. Heating during the winter.  Depending on where you live, you may need to heat your chicken coop during the winter.  You may also need to provide them with light.  (More about these topics later.)  If you live somewhere mild, it may not be a problem for you, since the birds generate a lot of heat on their own.  Still, you can consider other options, like an insulated coop, or you can incorporate heating tiles, or other things that will make it easier to keep the coop warm in the winter.    When you are selecting a site for your coop, remember that you will probably want to somehow get electricity out to the coop during the winter.
  3. Ventilation.  Some air flow keeps things cool during the summer and helps the litter dry out, etc.
  4. Protection from predators.  Depending on where you live, you’ll need to prepare to protect your birds from predators.  Sometimes this means fencing in, or completely enclosing the chicken area.  For especially determined predators, you’ll need to dig a trench, and extend the fence underground—in  a “J” shape, so that when predators dig they won’t be able to get under the fence.  Where we live, our biggest predator is our dog, so we keep our birds safe by only allowing the dog in their part of the backyard when we can fully supervise her.
  5. Cleaning the bottom of the coop.  We use the “deep litter” method, but there are other options.  You’ll want to decide how you plan to keep the bottom of the coop when you choose your coop.  I’ve heard of people putting linoleum at the bottom of a large coop, and then they just scrape the floor.  Some people will put another board beneath the roost; the birds poop a lot while they are roosting, so if you are able to just remove that portion of the litter, the whole coop will get dirty much slower.  Or, as I mentioned in the last post, you can use a mobile or “tractor” chicken coop, and then you have even less litter to deal with because it will fertilize your yard.

Well folks, I think that about covers it.  I think we’ve looked at most of the basics of keeping Preparedness Chickens.  If you have any other questions, feel free to ask me!  I don’t have all the answers, but I’m happy to help where I can.  Good luck!

4 Responses to “Preparedness Chickens, part 8: More about Chicken Coops”

  1. Tabatha

    Dear Emily,

    I just wanted to let you know that I am enjoying your articles. I currently have three hens that are in my back yard. Two of the hen’s I purchased from a small farmer. One was found on my husband’s rental property. All of the hen’s are well maintained, are fed an adequate diet and are free ranged. The problems that I am having is that they are not laying eggs. I have been following your instuctions but still no results. Is is possible that this farmer has cheated me and that I have older hens. Even if I do, I will take care of them because I love animals. I am still going to have to purchase a new set of hens. They are very fund to be around.

    Thanks for your help,


    • Emily


      If you’re sure that they have a proper diet (including access to water), there are few things that it could be:
      1. Seasonal / light problems – This isn’t usually a problem during the middle of the summer, but around fall the days shorten and chickens will stop laying (or stop laying as often). What we usually do about this is, we put a light in our chicken coop, on a timer. The light goes on around 5:30 pm and stays on until around 9 pm. This extends their days long enough that they lay. We keep the light out there from mid-fall through mid-spring.
      2. Molting – Often, especially in the fall, birds will molt. As they replace their feathers they don’t lay. If this is what’s happening, the birds should resume production in several weeks. (It’s not uncommon for multiple birds to synchronize when they molt.)
      3. Breed choice – Some breeds just don’t lay very often. I have a fluffy white chicken (called a “silkie”) and she rarely lays. I bought her (and keep her) just because she looks so funny.
      4. Age – You’re right that this is a likely reason that birds would not lay. Usually chickens lay small eggs well during their first year, they lay large eggs well during their second year, and during the third year they lay jumbo eggs infrequently.
      5. Is it possible that they are laying after all? You mention that they are free ranged…if they are not contained in a small area, it is totally possible that they are laying somewhere and you just haven’t found the nest full of eggs yet. Ours do that sometimes. I’ll start thinking, “Hey, I think it’s been a while since Gertie’s given us any eggs…” and then a few days later I’ll discover her new “nest” where she’s started laying and it has 10 eggs. :)

      Good luck. Chickens are so much fun!


  2. Tabatha

    Thank you very much Emily for your insight. I will be sure to inform you when the first egg arrives. Thank you very much for your time and effort.

    Best Regards

  3. graymare

    If you get a ceramic nest egg or 2 and put them in the nest boxes the hens will lay there. Or take an eg from 1 box and put it in the empty box, then the hens will lay in both boxes. I have 20 hens and 1 just loves to jump the fence and lay under the honeysuckle vine. I leave 1 egg in her nest overnight, so she continues to lay there… it sure beats hunting for the new nest site. Good Luck !!